Hi Tannis, It’s very frustrating to deal with persistent fruit rot! Since copper sprays haven’t been effective, it indicates that the issue may be due to fungal pathogens that require different control methods, or that the timing of the copper applications where not optimal. Here’s a breakdown of how to prepare those trees for next year:

1. Identify the Likely Culprit:

Brown Rot:
This is a common fungal disease affecting peaches and can also affect apples. Symptoms include brown, rotting spots on the fruit, sometimes with grayish mold. It thrives in warm, wet conditions.  

Apple Bitter Rot:
This is a fungal disease that causes dark, sunken spots on apples. It can also be a problem in warmer, humid areas.  

Other Fungal Diseases:
There are other fungal diseases that can cause fruit rot, so careful observation is important.

2. Sanitation is Key:

Remove Infected Fruit:
Thoroughly remove all infected fruit from the trees and the ground. Do not compost them. This is crucial because these fruits act as overwintering sites for the fungi.

Pruning:
During the dormant season (late winter), prune the trees to improve air circulation. This helps the trees dry faster after rain, reducing fungal growth. Remove any cankered or diseased branches.

Clean Up Debris:
Remove fallen leaves and other debris from around the base of the trees. This eliminates potential overwintering sites for pathogens.

3. Fungicide Applications:

Timing is Critical:
Next year, a preventative fungicide program is essential. Applications should begin at bloom and continue at regular intervals, especially during wet periods. Follow the instructions of the fungicide product label.

Fungicide Selection:
For brown rot, fungicides containing captan, myclobutanil, or propiconazole can be effective. For Apple bitter rot consider fungicides that contain captan, ziram, or other fungicides recomended for that specific problem.

It is very important to alternate the types of fungicides used, to prevent the fungi from building up a resistance to a single type of chemical.

Dormant Spray:
A dormant spray, applied before bud break in the spring, can help control overwintering fungal spores.

4. Cultural Practices:

Proper Spacing:
Ensure the trees are spaced adequately to allow for good air circulation. (We know you said you already did this, but it is important to note here for other FA readers who may be encountering a similar problem.)

Balanced Fertilization:
Healthy trees are more resistant to disease. Avoid over-fertilizing, which can promote excessive growth that is more susceptible to infection.  

Water Management:
Avoid overhead watering, which can keep the foliage and fruit wet. Drip irrigation is preferred.
Important Notes:

Always follow the instructions on fungicide labels.

Consider consulting with your local extension service or a certified arborist for specific recommendations for your area. They can help you identify the specific disease and recommend the best control measures.

It is very possible that a combination of fungal diseases are affecting your trees. So a combined approach with sanitation, and multiple types of fungicide applications, is the best path forward. By following these steps, you can significantly reduce the risk of fruit rot next year.

Best wishes, and let us know how it goes!
FA Team

Hi Sandra, If the plant if forming a small fruit that doesn’t grow and just turns yellow or orange, that sounds like a pollination problem. Try hand pollinating the flowers with a small paint brush. Brush gently against the stamen of the male flower (male flowers have a long stalk to them) and then take that brush and wipe it gently across the stigma of the female flower (female flowers grow close to the center of the plant). In addition to that, plant more flowering herbs and pollinator-friendly flowers near your veggies to help build up a pollinator and beneficial insect army. Best wishes, and please let us know how it goes!